30 de mai. de 2019

Shalimar Guerlain - English Review

Concept: 5                                                         Olfactive  Cohesion: 5
Technical Aspects (Sillage/Longevity): 5           Presentation: 5
Final Note: 5                                                      Note in the Price Range: 5
Price Range: 3 - 100 to 200 dollars
1 - Poor  2 - Regular 3 - Good 4 - Great 5 - Excellent

Notes: bergamot, lemon, tangerine, jasmine, May rose, orris, clove, labdanum, opoponax, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla

Personal Impressions

It is impossible to disassociate the Guerlain brand from one of its greatest and most successful creations of all time, Shalimar. Launched in 1925, Shalimar is a perfume that shows why some classics resist the time, the changes of each generation and the olfactory novelties. Perfumes like it become classics for perfection at the blend of their notes, for the ability to always have something to show in their aroma, for being creations far from the fads, focusing on the quality of the idea itself.

Shalimar is one of Guerlain's creations focused on love. In two types of love, considering the passion of its perfumer, Jacques Guerlain, by the aroma of the vanilla. The main love theme of the Shalimar composition is the love between the emperor Shãh Jahān and his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, who, according to the story, died after giving birth to one of the couple's children. The gardens of Shalimar was the place where the couple talked, and Jacques Guerlain uses his imagination to create what would have been the perfume that Mumtaz Mahal would have created in honor of his deceased and beloved wife based on this garden.

Shalimar is a composition deeply focused on vanilla, in an aromatic duality between vanilla and citrus notes. The scent of the vanilla explored in shalimar is not directly gourmand, purely sweet and sugared as we are accustomed. It is a complex vanilla aroma, which sometimes reveals itself with the caramel and innocent aroma similar to a the sweet lavender nuances, sometimes with a sensual, creamy, adult aroma. The first moments of shalimar are of a citrus scent, which explores the hesperidic and more acid side of lemon, bergamot and mandarin. The transition to a second, spicy floral moment, takes place in a melodious way, without major interruptions, as a loving conversation between two people who respect each other.

In a second moment it is possible to perceive the combination of the floral citrus aroma, subtly indolic, of the jasmine with warm and spicy carnation and the blanketed of the roses and the orris aroma. The combination is a part of the Guerlinade accord, common in Guerlain perfumes and in evidence at Shalimar. The Guerlinade accord imparts sensuality and complexity through a floral-spicy-gourmand aroma, which is extended and transformed into the various creations of the brand, depending on the message to be passed. Here in Shalimar the floral-spicy part of the Guerlinade signature functions as part of the landscape of this loving garden, which pays homage to the main theme, the delicate, sensual, hot, passionate vanilla.

At the final moment of this delicate Indian garden of loving conversation is that we perceive the main theme - the vanilla. Shalimar keeps the best of itself to those who admire it completely. The shalimar vanilla, although not pure gourmand, is a creamy vanilla, with an aroma, as mentioned above, sometimes delicate, burnt, other times more intense, almond-like. All the base notes are juxtaposed so that the vanilla shines: starting with the tonka fava, with almondy nuances, then the patchouli and opoponax, which give a sweet, resinous tone and finally the labdanum and sandalwood, which give it a subtle woody aroma. And it is perhaps this brilliant juxtaposition of aromas that gives the most beautiful and passionate character the shalimar vanilla.

Shalimar continues being one of the creations that serves as reference for the Oriental family of fragrances. As classic as it is, its history may seem a little bit tacky and its aroma dated to some people of the most current generations. For lovers of perfumery in its purest, artistic, and complete state, Shalimar is a perfume that will always be admired for its beautiful aroma or historical character.