15 de set. de 2019

Art de Parfum Encore Une Fois - English Review

Concept: 9
Olfactory: 8
Technical: 7
Final Score: 7,8

Score formula:
25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Technical
Official Price: 160 Pounds 50ml

Category: Niche

Founded in 2016, the Art de Parfum brand besides being at that time ahead of trends that would be formed also proved to be a brand with atypical development over these 3 years. Created by Ruta Degutyte the brand has made its essence an environmentally conscious perfumery, something that has become increasingly common among niche brands. But that was not a pretext for launching silly fragrances and Art de Parfum sought to focus on quality rather than quantity and in combining French sophistication with a contemporary style of perfumery. Only 3 years later the brand comes with a new creation to market, Encore une Fois, remaining true to its principles.

I confess that Encore une Fois is not my favorite of the brand and I was confused about the superior price over the others and about the limited edition status. It doesn't make much sense to me since the perfume seems to invest in an olfactory style that could either be a fixed part of the collection or even sell easily due the pleasant scent. What is certain is that conceptually the perfume delivers what it intends to and can continue with coherence what was started in 2016.

With a name that translates to Once Again the perfume focuses on the intimacy of the beloved's skin, which may explain its intimate nature and second skin aroma. Encore Une Fois seems to be yet another perfume that anticipates a trend towards more intimate, delicate and salty mineral-themed aromas, centered on those qualities of a synthetic ambergris accord. To create a distinctive aroma Encore Une Fois brings a mineral incense aura to this idea and works with the opening citrus to give it an air of French sophistication.

A very subtle use of aldehydes gives a classic French touch and helps create a bright, intense aroma that discretely refers to incense amid the clean aroma of the first minutes. There is something a bit resinous, reminiscent of sap and balm used in a very subtle way, blending in with the citrus-like aspect of orange and the more mineral smell of incense, which occupies the middle of the composition in the place of what is usually the  flowers. For those who fear caramel, it is a very discreet touch, which seems to be here more to create a contrast with the slightly salty aroma of the ambroxan-centered ambergris accord.

My disappointment with Encore un Fois is perhaps evolution, becoming too discreet and too intimate to my sense of smell. The musks seem to predominate and ambroxan doesn't stand out so much, making room for a distant woody aroma. This way the perfume becomes a little faded after the dynamics of the opening and the heart pass and makes you want to reapply so that you can feel the best moments of the perfume on the skin. It is certainly a perfume that at this moment only the loved one closest to you will be able to notice clearly.