1 de set. de 2019

Gucci Memoire d'une Odeur - English Review

Concept: 9
Olfactory: 8
Technical: 8.5
Final Note: 8.3

Composition Note:
25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Technical
Official Price: $ 160 100ml
Category: Niche

Perfumery, like fashion, is cyclical and often undergoes noticeable transformations with each change of decade. It is too early to predict what the 2020 - 2030s will bring us but there are already some signs in the air of things to come. Gucci Memoire d'un Odeur gives us a possible clue to a future that seems to bring back concepts of the 1990s with a new guise.

Under Alessandro Michele's creative direction, Gucci with Memoire d'une Odeur looks to the past and the present to create the fragrance of the future. In a way the brand aims to create a universal icon just as Calvin Klein proposed in the 1990s with its Ck One. The difference is that instead of conceptualizing as a unisex perfume the brand behind Memoire d'Un Odeur as a universal perfume, a concept that seeks to rescue an abstract aspect of aroma as memory, even as a kind of collective memory: something familiar but not easy to identify. Something that is related to one's experience. Something that in essence does not depend on gender to be appreciated or understood.

It is a difficult concept to evaluate because it involves precisely a level of abstraction that is easy to confuse with something indistinct, an olfactory blur rather than a real memory. It is even more challenging when one looks at how such a perfume is made in a more mass-market commercial perfumery, which causes the need for an aroma that is accessible to the public. But in the hands of Alberto Morillas this is successfully delivered.

Morillas' choice is not a coincidence considering that he himself was involved in the creation of Ck One. Alessandro Michele gives Morillas the task of exploring the universal aroma of chamomile as a central theme, which is a smart idea considering it is not a flower associated neither with men's perfumes nor with women's perfumes and which is a timeless aroma, known since ancient times and with a powerful and spiritual symbolism. Morillas creates a kind of mineral musk scent around the chamomile, bringing sandalwood to complement the spiritual and timeless aspect of the composition.

I confess that I expected a little more intensity of chamomile in Memoire d'Un Odeur: altough soft it is noticeable, with its curious combination of bitter herbal aspects and a slight almond and honey nuance. Perhaps to fit into something abstract and universal this aroma is softened and easily blends with a delicate sandalwood that is percetible from the start. Morillas seems to create a sandalwood accord that uses javanol, which gives a noticeable, smooth woody aroma with slight citrus and rose nuances. Sometimes sandalwood dazzles chamomile and other times it is noticeable in its soothing and unique aroma. The musks create a delicate second skin background and that is noticeable throughout evolution.

As in a memory, the more time passes the more discreet Gucci Memoire d'un Odeur becomes, farther away without completely dissapearing. It is certainly a perfume that defies today's demands for fragrances that, as in the 1980s, dominated the olfactory space and were impossible to not be noticed. Here the proposal seems more to point to a new decade where perfumery will target something simultaneously personal, discreet and universal in its approach.