29 de set. de 2019

Santi Burgas Aroma de Hormigueiro - English Review

Concept: 10
Olfactory: 10
Performance: 10

Final Score: 10

25% Concept, 50% Olfactory, 25% Diana Technical

Official Price: 120 euros 100ml

Category: Niche

It is interesting that only after 10 years of existence of its brand Santiago Burgas has finally reached its mission as a authorial, creative and excellence perfumery. But perhaps it is part of the animal itself that the artistic and perfumery director has chosen for himself: the ant symbolizes a work that is done cooperatively and produces its fruits with time, patience and effort. It is a symbolism of strength that can move huge obstacles over time - and certainly a major obstacle for perfumery as a whole today is to remain relevant, creative and appealing to the public. Hormigueiro's scent is able to deliver this in a very solid way, along with the primal water trilogy of which it is part.

It is curious/intriguing that Santiago Burgas seems to have finally found his creative freedom by indirectly honoring the primal structures of modern perfumery, as if by mastering and following the rules already created his brand would be able to transgress them indirectly. Hormigueiro's aroma is subversive in a subtle way, since in telling the narrative of an anthill's aroma the brand passes under the nose of the consumer a floral chypre of the 70's so that it sounds modern and contemporary. This is a feature of the classics, a timeless structure often only needing updates on its dynamics and new stories/contexts to make it interesting and innovative again - an evolutionary innovation that is as valuable as a disruptive one.

There is a very clever idea here to get over the possible constraints of creating a chypre structure with limitations on the use of oak moss - the use of wetter, earthy aroma of geosmin fits like a glove the oak moss and patchouli. The exchange of labdanum for mastic can bring a more mineral and less heavy aspect to the idea, reinforcing a certain moist and earthy aspect that suits the anthill idea very well. On top of this an interesting green floral aroma is built that recalls a reinvention of classics such as Calandre, Coriandre and Rive Gauche, with a rose scent hidden among the hints of galbanum, mushroom, moss and seaweed. It's a way of distracting the consumer's nose so that it consumes a classic idea without even realizing it.

It is interesting that the A.N.T collection seems to cover 3 bases of classical perfumery - A represents chypre, N citrus and T fougere/woody. Here Santiago finally achieves what he intended in his first collection - to create perfume that like ants has an interconnected behavior, but unlike its first collection each member makes sense to each other and tells a more complete and meaningful story when looked at together. The Primal Waters trilogy leads you to rediscover the beauty / refinement/complexity of classic structures and escape the boredom and limitation of niche perfumery that focuses on material excellence or luxury as a delirium of consumer social ascension. Perhaps the future of niche perfumery or even perfumery as a whole is one of rescuing the essence and purpose of past perfumery, and Hormigueiro's Aroma shows a way how to do this.