15 de out. de 2019

27 87 Elixir de Bombe - English Review

Niche perfumery in a very short period of time has become a kind of alternative Miss Universe contest where every brand in your speech instead of wanting world peace wants to offer a distinct perfumery with the best of materials and an authentic inspiration. It is a kind of niche gourmetization where what really speaks is not the actual artistic intentions but the financial pretensions. And in this contest already well competitive in 2016 the 27 87 enters as another competitor.

I see the 27 87 proposal as actually cynical and a good interpretation of the narcissistic idea behind the naming of the brand, whose name refers to the date of birth of its creator and nothing else. There is not one goal at 27 87 that really sets it apart as something unique, but a series of requirements to be tackled just because they are trending right now: artistic, original, gender-free, cruelty-free perfumes with clean ingredients and vegan materials. They just forgot to add the formulas were made for coaches and cross-fit people. The size of the bottle is bizarrely chosen in the volume of 87ml just to match the brand name (as this will make a lot of difference) and the packaging is sold as an unique clean canvas to highlight the perfumes, as if it were something innovative that no one has done or thought before. The lines are divided into 4 without any good explanation and the perfumes have concepts that the brand does not bother to explain or explore - after all they are very cool / innovative for doing that.

Elixir de Bombe exists within this concept and is clearly a gourmand perfume trying to be hipster / gourmet to appeal to those who enjoy a perfume just because it is "different" from the rest. Here the brand employs perfumer Mark Buxton's talents as if he is bringing something new to the market, but in practice he rescues the structure of his old 90's perfume, the CDG White. There is an idea similar to the contrast between a red fruity pomander-like accord and a warm, exotic spicy aroma, which is re-paginated by amplifying the base amber and adding the gourmand aroma of ethyl maltol. Elixir de Bombe seems a little amateurish to be honest, a very close scent with something I've already smelled in people starting to explore the combination of natural and niche perfumery.

The dynamics of the idea here as a whole reminds me quite another competitor of these those Miss Perfume contests, the Art de Parfum and its exotic red fruity tea Excentrique Moi. The difference is that while 2787 tries to sound cool and innovative and gets lost in its thin, uncohesive speech, its competitor can tell a story that uses the cliches of the market in a way that tells a true story. Bombe's Elixir is unlike anything in the marketing and like everything else that tries to be like no one else.