16 de out. de 2019

Akro Dark - English Review

In theory exclusive and niche collections from renowned and expert perfumers are a dream come true for perfume enthusiasts - the chance to see a master deliver something creative, challenging and beautifully crafted. Unfortunately, they often work more as a financial catalyst for the name that perfumer has built in the market, and even though they deliver good perfumes is not what would be expected of someone creative and without limitations. The collection proposed by Olivier Cresp in this sense is very surprising.

I confess that what Cresp proposes in his brand Akro made me look at him with other eyes, because I always saw him more as a very commercial perfumer. Its Akro brand goes far from the shabby theme of precious and noble materials and seeks to build a concept, one that is not afraid of being obscure: addictions and how they can be conveyed through aromas. In Dark Olivier Cresp interprets his addiction to chocolate, especially dark chocolate and in part delivers what you would expect from a chocolate scent and in parts surprising in what is delivered.

If there is anyone who can simulate certain aspects of the perfume Angel and yet bring something new to the idea is its own creator and that is exactly what I see in Dark. Cresp seems to return Angel's chocolate scent, changing the proportions so that patchouli and honey become secondary actors and the aroma of a very bitter and dark cocoa takes center stage, in a scent that establishes a tension line between sweetness and darkness. The part of the darkness is backed by elements that are not listed in the composition, with a smoky leather aspect that refers in parts to oud and parts to castoreum. There is a distant presence of musks that seem to work precisely between the innocent and the dirty animal.

While in Angel the gourmand and chocolate theme is used to redeem childhood memories, in Dark he shows that this innocence can only be a gimmick for something more fetishistic and daring, addictive even if challenging. Amazingly very good.