28 de out. de 2019

Guerlain Cuir Intense - English Review

Guerlain Cuir Intense
If you go to the French Guerlain website you notice that the Les Absolus d'Orient line has been moved from the Les Exclusifs section to the Parfum section and what seems like a small change seems to me to be a repositioning of the line. Earlier this year the Les Deserts d'Orient trilogy was discontinued, with 2 of them being incorporated into the Les Absolus collection (Encens Mythique with the same name and Un Songe d'un Bois under a new formulation and named Bois Mysteriux). Cuir Intense is the perfume that brings the line to 6 members and indicates to me that Guerlain has taken a semi-exclusive stance in its approach and probably in its price and distribution positioning.

If by name and considering the first perfumes of the line you would expect a very raw, powerful and animalic leather it is necessary to pay attention to the description of the fragrance on the brand website, which is very precise regarding the nature of the perfume on the skin. Although inspired by leather as an ancient raw material, Cuir Intense is a scent of contrasts, where Thierry Wasser really combines strength, flexibility and sensuality. It is an exercise in striking a balance between a more commercial and pleasant fruity floral aroma and a brighter, animalic leather scent. This produces an intriguing scent that seems to point to a classic heritage of the brand while its DNA does not immediately seem to tell Guerlain.

My biggest surprise when applying Cuir Intense to the skin is its floral scent and a velvety leather impression, something that shows a suede-like nuance amid the fruity apricot aroma and the floral ylang aura on the opening. This notes combination is reminiscent of Chanel style, mainly because the brand uses ylang a lot and although the emphasis is placed on Osmanthus the Ylang has an essential role here to bring the most sensual and tropical side of this leather.

As the perfume begins to evolve, the roughest, driest, most animal-like aspect of leather prevails, albeit in a more domesticated manner so that it does not fight with the floral part. The osmanthus ends up being worked more in its white floral aura, not bringing the oily and leathery aspect of its absolute. The scent ends almost in a modern chypre direction, just missing a sweeter scent and a bit of patchouli to move the scent in that direction. Instead, we have a mild tobacco aroma and a creamy, woody sandalwood.

The general impression I have here is that Cuir Intense seems tailor-made to introduce the line to a new audience that is looking for something more exotic and striking but finds the fragrances on this line a little bit too rough for their liking. It is a fragrance that moves well between the masculine and feminine universe and a mysterious aroma, bordering a classic leather in its nuances. Certainly among the best launches of the brand this year.