23 de out. de 2019

Hermetica Patchoulight - English Review

It is interesting the way Memo Paris brings in Hermetica more artistic and even innovative concepts to perfumes that clearly have a commercial pretense, which makes the task more difficult, as it is necessary to balance consumer appeal with the artistic integrity of the idea. In Patchoulight it catches my attention how the brand seems to flirt in both the fragrance and the description of perfume with constructivism, proposing an acrostic description for the perfume. The very form of the fragrance's construction seems to be heading in this direction, and its more molecular and even somewhat atomic view turns out to be an exercise in reimagining the aroma of patchouli in a larger context.

As the brand itself highlights on the site, Patchouli is one of the natural perfumery raw materials that is offered in various molecular treatments to diminish its most earthy and complicated nuances, trying to exalt the brightness of its aroma. Patchouli is an excellent choice for a molecular scent as its scent alone is complex enough. The difficult thing is to prevent it from dominating the whole composition and blurring the elements around it.

In Patchoulight there is a very interesting aspect, which is the contextualization of the patchouli earthy and dark chocolate in a green aroma, a not very common nuance in this type of perfume. Patchoulight also seems to revisit the structure of an 80s floral chypre and trim the edges while changing the main protagonists. We still have a rose in combination with the earthy and luminous patchouli scent, but the one that becomes evident in the first place is a pair of iris and violet, used here to highlight both the green and earthy aspect of patchouli. It is interesting how the combination of iris, violet and pink gives a cosmetic appearance to this perfume, something that sometimes brings the lip gloss before the most oriental and earthy aroma of patchouli takes over the composition and lingers on the skin.

You can quickly see aspects of Source 1's woody and waxy scent in Patchoulight, but just as in Green Lion here it is yet more of a structure element, present to add complexity and ease of use layered with other fragrances in the collection. Of the 3 Hermetica fragrances already evaluated Patchoulight is the one that has the most complexity, best sillage and duration on the skin and is a very well done exercise of reimagining in multilayers a patchouli that would perfectly match a floral chypre.