29 de abr. de 2020

Jeroboam Ligno - Fragrance Review

Of the perfumes recently launched by Jerobam Ligno it is certainly one of the best. Everything that works in the best perfumes of Jeroboam is present in Ligno: adherence to the Esperanto theme, formulas that can tend to minimalism and be rich at the same time, perfumes that use musks as luxurious pieces and not as an excuse to finish a composition. The air of mystery of the best perfumes from Jeroboam works in Ligno to pay homage to a much loved material of perfumery: Patchouli.

You can love or hate it but you will hardly be able to ignore the aroma of patchouli. Discovered by the West and Middle East during the Silk Road, the aroma of silks preserved in patchouli quickly made it desired and coveted until its smell became popular and lost some of its glamour. Afterwards, Patchouli was again involved in a moment of rise and controversy when it was adopted in the 70s by the Hippie movement and gained an indirect association with marijuana (reports say that the earthy and strong aroma of patchouli was used to mask the aroma of marijuana).

In perfumery, patchouli also takes a dominant position and a perfume that you use in larger doses will hardly not gain the earthy, slightly bitter and even camphor contours of the essential oil of patchouli. There are so many perfumes of patchouli and their aroma is so peculiar and intense that it is difficult to create something that really brings news to the smell of patchouli.

Ligno is aware of this but does not use this limitation as an excuse and seeks to sculpt the predominant facets of the material to create a woody illusion and thus live up to the name of the composition, which in Esperanto means wood. The earthy and dense aroma of patchouli is the center of the aroma, but around it we work with a kind of dry and animalic woody aroma, something that makes me think of a tribute to the masculine perfumery of the 80's, only interpreted in a different way. more direct.

If Ligno represented some kind of wood, its black and earthy aroma makes me think something between Mahogany and Peroba. This impression is mixed with a dry, medicinal pine scent and a black animalic aroma of castoreum, which is more noticeable close to the skin and gives a discreet leather nuance to the composition. Ligno's aura is complemented by a more luminous aspect, like a molecular extraction of patchouli well used in this case, complemented with an amber idea that includes ambergris, ambroxan and labdanum. Ligno is a very well composed, luxurious and appropriate perfume to the theme that governs it and the material that it honors.