20 de abr. de 2020

Lubin Aristia Daïmo, Condottiere, Galaor - Fragrance Reviews

In 2019 the centenary French brand Lubin launched the collection of perfumes Aristia as a response to what the brand sees as a major problem in the premium market - the devaluation of premium perfumes due to the ease with which they are sold at a discount on e-commerce, making distribution at full price in physical stores somewhat problematic.

Aristia positions itself as an experience that is indeed luxurious and premium as a whole and for this to work, the new perfumes in this collection are sold only in a few physical locations. I would say that there is a certain irony in what Lubin does here because the brand uses the same artificial tatics as the premium luxury market to produce an olfactory experience that is not entirely convincing as such.

It can be said that virtually all codes of how to produce an artificially exclusive perfume are used here. Starting with the name of the collection, which means the best, the excellent, reinforcing the cartoonish notion that the main thing about luxury is excellence. The brand falls in a way in the same clichés of the market, clichés that even help the consumer to get lost and question the value of what is delivered when perfumes are not so interesting and there are infinite options of the same thing. Here we have another brand abusing extravagant packaging, golden bottles, perfumes that are theoretically extracts but do not behave as such and whose value is reduced to the excellence of the materials.

At least in Aristia there is something that stands out, the cohesive concept of the collection. The new perfumes, although not convincing as luxurious extracts, in fact tell a story, honoring warriors from the past from different cultures, epic heroes who become honoured here in fragrances where 'theoretically' the excellence of materials helps to tell their stories.

Daïmo is perhaps one of the weakest perfumes in the collection as a whole, with no great olfactory connection between concept and execution. The story of powerful feudal lords loyal to the Emperor of Japan is used as an excuse for a scent of leather and spices. Here we have a bitter and medicinal spicy aroma and a leather that oscillates between something more amber and sweet and more rustic. In general it looks like an old-fashioned perfume that tries to be modern and does nothing very well. The performance is ridiculous for a luxurious extract.

Condottieri is one of the best executed in the collection. The idea here is to pay homage to Italy and the Renaissance by choosing the figure of Italian knights who used their swords for noble causes. The scent delivered fits well in the narrative that such knights dressed in perfumed leathers and perfumed themselves with creations of quality iris. Condottieri delivers an iris that knows how to measure the aquatic aspect of the violet leaf and balance the sweetness of the violet flower and the earthy aspect of the iris. This is put in a context where a soft leather supports the rest of the composition. I would say that there is still a lack of a more rustic side and more intensity for the perfume to actually reflect the proposed theme.

Galaor is a tribute to a particular figure rather than a knight class. Considered one of the most virtuous knights of the European Middle Ages, the fragrance that is made to honor him tries to reflect his pleasure in the refinements of the time, especially incense and his participation in ceremonies with enchanting balms. The perfume's Aura reflects this, creating a warm and retro resinous environment where myrrh and peruvian balm wrap a rose with touches of cinnamon and citrus. Unfortunately this is another perfume in the collection that seems to bring an interesting olfactory narrative and let it disappear from nowhere - which is strange for perfumes that should be the best and the most excellent within perfumery.