28 de mai. de 2020

Café de Parfum Grim Fantasia - Fragrance Review

The notion that a perfume inspired by the gourmand world is going to be sweet and gustatory is so strong that even if we don't know a perfume, we expect it to be sweet when it has this theme. It is a strong legacy that the success of the perfume Angel brought perfumery and that proved to be so profitable that it has since been reproduced en masse. The Café de Parfum brand was born challenging this notion by creating a collection of perfumes inspired by the gourmand universe and which are not literally sweet.

Who comes to challenge and conceptualize this is the independent Thai perfumer Saruj Tangtatorn. With Café de Parfum Saruj seems to me to take inspiration from the more complex and abstract style of perfumery of the past, applying this to the gourmand theme of the present moment. Saruj proposes in perfumery the equivalent of haute couture by recontextualizing the materials that make up the desserts that inspire him. Nothing is obvious, literal or sweet at Café de Parfum and I am surprised by a brand so dedicated to its concept and that it still risks itself that way.

Grim Fantasia is inspired by the Grim's tale of the Little Red Riding Hood, playing with the evil wolf disguised as the sweet little grandmother of the Little Red Riding Hood. This concept is associated with the Dark Forest Cake dessert, playing with the appearance of the cake - the cherry and the cream signifying innocence and purity and the dark chocolate cake representing just the dark side of the evil wolf. This play between contrasts, innocence and darkness is transformed into an interesting classic chypre with cherry nuances.

Grim Fantasia takes the idea of ​​the Black Forest to the more literal side of the cake's name and creates a woody chypre in its heart and essence. It is interesting that even with the current restrictions you can see the chypre side: the velvety and earthy side of the moss is very well combined with vetiver, with a drier amber and with what appears to be a touch of classic leather, more rubber-like. The cocoa ends up being lost a little, its aroma of dark chocolate blends very easily with the leather and the chypre side of the composition.

On top of that chypre evil wolf it's built the the cake part of the black forest itself. The cherry brings both the nuances of almonds and those of maraschino liqueur and is not a sickening cherry, being noticeable for much of the opening and the heart of the perfume. The cream works as a light sweet touch that appears along with the iris in the heart of the fragrance. Cinnamon brings a warm spicy side and helps to bring sweetness and elevate the most delicate part of the perfume, helping to create with the gourmand elements the dynamic between light and dark that is the main guiding thread of a chypre perfume. Everything here is a game of contrasts, illusions and perceptions that play with the limits of the gourmand world and also of classic and modern perfumery - a dream within a dream as the brand itself says in the product sample.