8 de jun. de 2020

Parfums Dusita Le Pavillon D'Or - Perfume Review

Some may argue that in the olfactory style Pissara Umavijani has evolved in recent years her Dusita brand in a more contemporary than vintage direction. I would say that this may be looking at a reductionist way both the perfumery of the past and what Dusita itself has been doing.

Pissara has developed an authorial work that focuses on artistic, personal perfumery and that favors an organic evolution of her work instead of overloading the market with more of the same. The perfumer and owner of the brand selects noble synthetic and natural materials and carefully balances them in order to tell something that is new and familiar at the same time, simple and complex in the way it is told. It captures the essence of past perfumery and not just a caricature imitation of it.

In Pavillon D'Or the perfumer uses yet another of her beloved father's poems and makes reference to a golden temple in Ayutthaya, the former capital of Thailand. In the two inspirations there is something in common, a reverence for nature and a contemplative and spiritual state of composition. Seeking to preserve this, the perfumer offers here an impressionistic aroma that mixes incense, exotic and noble flowers and aromatic herbs.

Pavillon D'Or is a perfume difficult to interpret nuances, seeming to oscillate between the colors green, white and a distant shade of gold. Impressions end up being subjective because of this. Its opening reminds me of the smell of green leaves, galbanum and something discreet minty. The body that comes right after makes more reference to flowers and oscillates between gold and green: the boronia and honeysuckle create a noble, sophisticated floral body that mixes the smell of green flowers, white petals and a light touch of honey floral to create the golden aura of the composition.

Keeping this sacred state of contemplation of nature, I see a perfume that ends with a light touch of incense, a discreet powdery nuance and a creamy and delicate woody base, creating a second skin aroma that is sophisticated, subtle and persistent. The perfume sells very well an impressionist watercolor of flowers, incense, herbs and wood and brings what really enchants in the perfumery of the past, olfactory luxury combined with a product where the emphasis is first on the perfume itself and then on the rest of the product.