17 de ago. de 2020

Guerlain Parisienne Mayotte - Fragrance Review



Launched in 2006 in one of the first expansions of the exclusive Parisiennes line, the Mayotte perfume came to Guerlain's exclusive distribution to save one of its commercial sales failures, the Mahora perfume. As much as Mahora has its merits, launching a dense and oily floral perfume in the early 2000s was a big mistake for Guerlain, which quickly discontinued it in 2002. Unfortunately Mayotte was not so lucky and today it is also just part of the brand's history catalog and is no longer available for purchase.

I confess that Mayotte and Mahora for me have always been Guerlains difficult to appreciate and even today I still see them as ugly ducklings within the brand. It is a fact that both are more daring fragrances than much that the brand did during the beginning of 2000. They are still gigantic and complicated florals that seem to be 20 years late, more belonging to the 80s than the decade that were launched.

Inspired by the Mayotte Island and its superior production of ylang-ylang Jean Paul Guerlain proposes an exotic and powerful floral, practically wild. The harmony and subtlety that characterize Guerlain's DNA is practically abandoned here, creating a fierce and intense opening, one that suggests something almost savage. There is an exotic, green and camphorous aroma of tuberose that mixes with oily and spicy nuances that refer to carnation. The frangipani here also sounds intense, almost bitter and medicinal. These tropical and exotic scents almost end up stealing the protagonism of the ylang in the compositon.

It is after the first hour of the perfume on the skin that Mayotte gains Guerlain's harmony and floral romanticism, albeit in a very exotic way. The Ylang that appears in your heart is very harmonious and of high quality, bringing both the fruity side and the sophisticated and creamy white floral. It is extended in a creamy woody direction where vanilla and sandalwood predominates. At this stage, Mayotte refers to Samsara, as if it were an intense floral overdose of the same idea.

Even today I would say that Mayotte is not an easy-to-enjoy perfume and certainly a limited-selling one. However, it is a fragrance that has its appeal and sensuality and the brand could reformulate it to preserve the heart and base of the fragrance and soften the hard-to-digest opening. Whether this will happen one day I don't know, but today Mayotte is a collector's item and because of its difficult fragrance and high price it is not worth buying blindly.